Q: Does my piece need to be completely dry before firing? How can I tell?

Crucially, yes! Your piece must be 100% bone-dry before firing . Any remaining moisture will turn to steam and can cause the piece to crack, warp, or even break apart during firing. How to check: Place your piece on a warm surface like a mug warmer or on a piece of glass. If you see any condensation form, it\'s not dry yet. Using a food dehydrator is also a great way to ensure it\'s completely dry.

Q: My piece is brittle and broke after firing. Why?

The most likely causes are: Incomplete Sintering: The piece was fired at a temperature that was too low or for too short a time. This means the silver particles didn\'t fully fuse together. Moisture: The piece was not completely dry before firing, which can lead to invisible micro-cracks forming in the internal structure.

Q: Can I embed gemstones in the clay?

Yes, you can! However, you must use stones that can withstand high firing temperatures. Fire-safe gemstones like Cubic Zirconia (CZ) and most lab-created stones (e.g., sapphires, rubies) work well. Avoid most natural gemstones and glass, as they are likely to crack or change color in the heat.

Question 1

If the clay becomes dry or hard and cannot be molded What do I need to do to make the clay soft and moldable again?

Accepted Answer

1. Apply olive oil or baby oil all over your hands and equipment.

2. Put the clay on the file sheet. Then knead the clay to remove air.

3. Add 2-3 drops of water and knead until the clay is soft.

4. Repeat kneading until the clay is soft enough to mold into a workpiece.

Question 2

What tools do I need to get started?

Accepted Answer

For beginners, the recommended basic tools are:

A non-stick work surface
A small roller
Thickness guides (also known as spacers or slats)
A release agent (such as olive oil or baby oil) to prevent the clay from sticking to your hands and tools.
Modeling tools, carving tools, and a craft knife for shaping and trimming.
A paintbrush for applying water to join parts and for refining details.
A kiln, a handheld butane torch, or a gas stove for firing the piece.

Question 3

How do I store unused Shannta Silver Clay?

Accepted Answer

To keep your clay from drying out, wrap it tightly in plastic wrap and store it in an airtight container or zip-lock bag. Store it away from heat and direct sunlight.

Question 4

Does my piece need to be completely dry before firing? How can I tell?

Accepted Answer

Crucially, yes! Your piece must be 100% bone-dry before firing. Any remaining moisture will turn to steam and can cause the piece to crack, warp, or even break apart during firing.

How to check: Place your piece on a warm surface like a mug warmer or on a piece of glass. If you see any condensation form, it\'s not dry yet. Using a food dehydrator is also a great way to ensure it\'s completely dry.

Question 5

How can I fire my piece?

Accepted Answer

There are three primary methods you can use to fire your piece.

Please Note: When using open-flame methods like a torch or gas stove, you may see a small flame and notice a slight smell coming from the piece. Don\'t be alarmed; this is a normal part of the process as the organic binder burns away.

Torch Firing: This method is ideal for small and relatively thin pieces. Heat the piece on a fire-proof surface until it glows a consistent orange-red color, and then continue to hold that temperature for an additional 2-5 minutes, depending on the size of the piece.
Gas Stove Firing: Place your piece on a stainless steel mesh directly over the gas burner. Turn on the flame and heat the piece until it glows a consistent orange-red all over. This indicates that the binder has burned off and the silver particles have sintered (fused) together.
Kiln Firing: This is the most reliable and precise method, delivering the best results for pieces of any size or thickness. A typical firing schedule is to heat the kiln to a temperature between 800°C - 900°C (1560°F - 1650°F) and hold it for 30-60 minutes.

Question 6

Why is my piece white and not shiny after firing?

Accepted Answer

This is completely normal. The white, matte surface is the result of the sintering process, where the silver particles fuse together. You just need to remove this fine outer layer to reveal the shiny silver underneath.

Question 7

How do I make my fired piece shiny?

Accepted Answer

After the piece has been fired and has cooled completely, follow these steps:

Brushing: Use a stainless steel to gently scrub the surface. This will remove the white layer and reveal the silver\'s natural luster.
Polishing: For a higher shine, you can continue polishing with fine-grit sandpaper or polishing pads for a mirror-like finish.

Question 8

My piece cracked while it was drying. Why?

Accepted Answer

This is usually caused by uneven drying (e.g., one part drying faster than another) or having areas that are too thin. Try to let your pieces dry slowly. Small cracks that appear during the drying stage can often be repaired with Silver Slip (silver clay mix with water) before firing.

Question 9

My piece is brittle and broke after firing. Why?

Accepted Answer

The most likely causes are:

Incomplete Sintering: The piece was fired at a temperature that was too low or for too short a time. This means the silver particles didn\'t fully fuse together.
Moisture: The piece was not completely dry before firing, which can lead to invisible micro-cracks forming in the internal structure.

Question 10

Can I embed gemstones in the clay?

Accepted Answer

Yes, you can! However, you must use stones that can withstand high firing temperatures. Fire-safe gemstones like Cubic Zirconia (CZ) and most lab-created stones (e.g., sapphires, rubies) work well. Avoid most natural gemstones and glass, as they are likely to crack or change color in the heat.

Getting Started & Usage of Silver Clay